It was actually only off from the original timing mark on the dampner by approx 3/8". Okie Dokie, I used a piston stop and verified TDC. You can then use the dial indicator to measure your duration at 0.050" lift to get all of the information that was printed on your cam card by who ever ground it.Īs a final consideration check under the distributor cap to see if the vacuum advance has been disabled (locked out) or if the weights are not sticking out because a spring popped off, or the weight platform is so rusty that the weights are sticking. You can use the degree wheel and the dial indicator to measure duration, and lift and calculate your overlap and LSA. Once you have TDC marked with your bolt on pointer set to match the grove in the damper, find out by using a dial indicator and the degree wheel where your cam is installed (usually straight up is four degrees advanced with an off the shelf cam). Stock indicators are often off a degree or two, and that is before any one modifies the motor.Īs Garth stated above find TCD with a degree wheel and a piston stop. Second issue is your bolting an indicator to the block and hoping it lines up with TDC. A CD ignition box can play havoc with some of the lower priced adjustable timing lights (though I have had remarkably good luck with a cheap one I bought from Sears years ago.) I would guess first off that you have a capacitor ignition box installed. Is it possible to have 55 degrees of advance at idle? With a BBC yes it is possible, but highly unlikely. Im not an experienced tuner, but my main question is can my 396 be actually running at 55 degrees advanced? I re-adjusted the air/fuel screws (4) until the idle smoothed out and increased barley (they were in too far, and I backed the screws out maybe 1/4 turn). When I tried to adjust the distributor, each way the car would want to die. I am concerned that the 6 years that the car sat in a paint & body shop, it got dust in everywhere, maybe even clogging up oil galleys. I verified that the push rods were clear). I noticed when I re-adjusted the valves (I wasn't sure if the valves were originally sett correctly, so I went through and re-set the valves in order- some of the lifters didn't seem to pump oil up through the push rods. There is some faint clattering up around the lifters. I have a high torque starter, but there seems to be no drag on the engine either hot or cold. But 55 degrees?! That's a quarter of the way around the harmonic balancer. I called my buddy and he said that the indicator is just in the wrong place. Is that possible? What am I missing? I know there are many more questions that need to be asked. When I looked at the dial I about dropped the timing light! 55 degrees! 55 Degrees at idle. It finally lined up with the "0" on the indicator. I started turning, and turning and all of the sudden, I saw the mark on the balancer coming closer and closer. A buddy told me to put the dial at "0", and then turn the dial until the timing mark lines up with the zero on the indicator. I have one of those timing lights with the dial. I was finally going to get to set the timing. It did not have a timing indicator on it so I bought a billet indicator and put it on Saturday. I purchased a brand new Holley 650 double pumper. The 396 does have roller rockers, but just Hyd. Guy #1 is a used car salesman, so I cant trust anything he tells me, so I guess it was okay that he couldn't tell me anything about it. Guy #2 moved to Las Vegas and I have been unable to locate him. Guy #1 could not tell me anything about the restoration or the engine, other that it had been rebuilt and started, but had zero miles. He bought it from another guy (Guy#2) that did the partial restoration. I bought my 69 SS 396 from a guy (Guy#1) that let the car sit for 6 years.
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